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RV-7 N8ZG
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Firewall

There are several angles and braces to be made for the firewall. F-601J-L & -R are made from 0.250x2x2-1/2 angle stock and support the rudder pedals in the center of the firewall. I used the hacksaw to rough them out and finished with the Vixen file and ScotchBrite.

Here's a nugget for you: If you're not using a Faset fuel pump, don't bother with the Fuel Pump Doubler. I'm not as bright as some, and it sure would help if Van's would at least acknowledge some of these option-points somewhere - like on the prints. Head down and locked, I followed the manual and the prints. Made the doubler, clamped and drilled all the holes in the firewall. The AFP pump mounts on the floor, right behind the firewall - maybe the AFP installation will use the two 1/4-28 bolts...? Wrong. Dernit. I made a new doubler without the big bolt holes and will rivet it in place later. Or maybe I'll just mount the first one and stick two short stainless bolts in the holes. I may even change my mind again and make a third doubler out of stainless.

Cleco and clamp all the angles, brackets and stiffeners to the stainless bulkhead and check for fit. Notice the brake line pass-thru doubler in the lower left corner. If you plan to put your tailwheel up front, the brake lines will exit the cockpit further aft at the gear weldments, so you'll use an angle instead of the flat plate to transition from braided lines to plastic tubing.

When you're happy with the fit of the braces and shims, ream or drill all the holes to the proper size and take it all apart. Dimple the firewall for AN426 rivets (manufactured head forward to present a smooth surface to the engine compartment). Countersink the braces where appropriate and de-burr the parts.

The angles and braces are made from extruded alloy and deserve some corrosion protection. Scuff, clean and prime using your favorite process. I went the easy route with these. Alumiprep and AFS Primer-Sealer was all I did.

When your primer is cured, cleco all the parts (except the recess) back in place and prepare for riveting. I used the pneumatic squeezer on everything that it would reach, then switched to back-riveting.

Some folks use their C-frame dimpler for riveting the firewall, others do it free-hand. I blocked the firewall up off the table with scrap 2x4s and stood my mushroom bucking bar on the table. Prop the firewall on the blocks forward-side down, move the bucking bar to wherever it needs to be and bang away from the top/aft side. I left the recess off for easier access later while fitting the parts around the firewall. I'll rivet it in place just before the engine goes on permanently.