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RV-7 N8ZG
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Most of the pictures don't really show the truth of my working conditions.  I'm hurting for space.  Unless you're building in a broom closet, don't cry to me about space:)

Just about every website I've studied says the same thing, but it bears repeating.  The spars are truly a work of art.  It's a shame to have to unwrap them and start chewing up that pretty golden finish.  They would make a lovely mantle for the fireplace, but if you want to fly, you have to hack on the spars.

I began by taping off the doubler edges to keep the chips and shavings out.  Waste of time.  Just start drilling.  You'll eventually need countersink depth gauges for each of the different sheet thicknesses and their corresponding rivet and screw dimples; might as well make them now, unless you are smarter than I am, in which case you made them while you were waiting for the wing kit.  Cut a scrap chunk of the appropriate thickness, drill to the needed size and dimple.  Use this sample to test for proper countersink depth when setting up your micro-stop cages. 

The instructions tell you to rivet the nutplates in place and then countersink, counting on the nutplate to center and stabilize the countersink pilot.  Other builders reported trouble with chattering and rough holes using this method, so I opted for a different process.

To clear a dimple for #6 or #8 screws the countersink will penetrate the back side of the 0.063 flange.  With nothing to center the pilot, the counter sink will chatter, leaving a rough hole and a great place for cracks to start.  I made guide blocks from a chunk of 1x1x1/8 aluminum angle to help me drill cleaner countersinks in the spar flange.  Cleco and then clamp the block in place, then countersink the pre-punched holed for the #8 tank flange screws or #6 inspection cover screws.  The added thickness helps keep the countersink pilot aligned when you need to countersink deeper than the stock is thick. 

Once all the tank flange screw holes were countersunk for #8 and the inspection cover holes for #6, I countersunk all the holes for the rivets that will attach the nutplates.  De-burr the holes and clean and spot-prime the freshly-exposed aluminum inside the countersinks. 

Countersinking the spar is not difficult, but it is tedious and chews up a bunch of time.  I basically spent a full day countersinking.  By the time I had all the holes done, I was worn out and put the nutplates off until the next day. 

Cleco and rivet the nutplates to the spars.  Be sure to check each nutplate for threads before you rivet it in place - I found three that had to come off. 

After the nutplates come the tie-downs.  Here's an idea - read the instructions.  You're supposed to look at the plans, mark and drill one hole, then clamp the stock to the spar and back-drill the other three holes thru the spar.  Some dofus measured, marked and drilled all four holes on both pieces of stock and then had to make several contributions to the jar and another to Van when the holes in the stock didn't line up with the holes pre-punched in the spar. 

When you've drilled the holes correctly, you can remove the parts and drill, de-burr and countersink for the nutplates that hold the parts to the spar.  Rivet the nutplates, tie-downs and spacers together and bolt them to the spars to check the fit.  Once you're satisfied, clean and prime the parts, then mount the tie-down assemblies and bellcrank brackets to the spars. 

If you're using an integral autopilot roll servo bracket like the one supplied by TruTrak (pictured on the right), install it now.  TruTrak will sell you any random piece of their system that you want at any point.  I ordered the servo mounting brackets ($50 for both) while waiting for the wing, then ordered the roll servo ($1000) when I was ready to mount it.  When I order the last few pieces, I'll be billed for the balance of the kit price.  The only premium for breaking the kit up is the shipping cost.  I like their attitude.

The rear spars aren't nearly as pretty as the mains, but you still have to work them up.  Start by smoothing the edges of the spars and the doublers, then trim the inboard doublers per the prints and de-burr. 

Position the center and outboard doublers on the spars, clamp them in place and back-drill thru the pre-punched spar, adding clecos as you go.  Use the aileron pushrod cut-out in the spar to make the matching cut-out in the center doubler.  Take it apart and de-burr the parts.

Straighten the forked inboard doublers and cleco them and the smaller doublers to the spars.  Ream the rivet holes to #30.  Take it apart, de-burr and countersink as indicated on the prints.  With the doublers riveted in place, it will be nearly impossible to dimple the adjacent holes on the top of the spar.  Ream those holes to #40 and dimple.  Clean and prime as desired - I used Alodine and called it good.

Cleco all the parts back to the rear spars.  Refer to the prints and mark the holes that will attach ribs, gap fairings and brackets later.  Rivet the rear spar components together.

Ribs